Todos Sanots, BCS, MX Spring 2013

  Spring slowly began to arrive in Western WA, and Ambre and I were suffering from a major case of cabin fever / winter sucks 'itus' so we picked a place on the map to visit.
  Todos Santos, BSC, MX got selected, I had driven through the town 18ish years ago on a random road trip but remembered little of it other than every other memory I have of the Baja, beautiful beaches, warm weather and wonderful people.

 So we did our normal thing of light planning (car rental, a place to sleep and plane tickets) and we were off. With a small twist, Ambre's madre vendria! I was actually very excited that Eleanor would be coming with us and am still so glad she came. Ambre's madre is a pretty damn cool lady and cracks me up when I can actually hear what she says (she speaks softly and my hearing sucks)

   We arrived in Los Cabos unscathed grabbed our rental car and headed norte to Todos Santos. It is roughly a 1-1/2 hour drive and beautiful. The change in scenery from Los Cabos through Cabo San Lucas and into the desert is striking. After passing all of the resorts and traffic of CSL the road dives into the Sonora desert, bright blue sky (I left my sunglasses in WA) with a striking contrast to the coffee brown landscape that is riddled with cacti and scrub brush.
  THEN! We round a bluff on one of the many hills and there is the virgin ocean. I say virgin, because there really is no other word to describe the empty unspoiled beaches.

   This beach is not extraordinary in the area, it is the norm. Miles of sand, crashing waves, crystal clear blue sky and most of the time complete solitude. I drew the analogy that amazing beaches on the Baja are like Douglas Fir trees in western WA, they are beautiful to look at but they are everywhere, how many people here marvel at our trees? Hundreds of miles of beach and not a person in sight! Perfect

     Main street Todos Santos. It is always a welcome shock to return to MX and see the colors, nothing is drab, beige does not exist on their color pallet and I am grateful. Here a purple house is considered annoying to the neighbors, in MX the neighbor will paint their home a complimentary color that stands out more. Vivacious, that is the word I would use to describe what you see. Everything has life.
  After a few u turns on narrow dirt roads and the help of the friendliest smile I have ever seen @ La Esquina

 we managed to find our home for the week, and where we would plant our butts every morning for great coffee and food.

  The thatched roof building is our kitchen and the tile roofed white building has 2 rooms with baths. Casa Rancho and Alec (the owner) are perfect! Our random adventures would never be possible or as memorable without the people we meet along the way, I bring it up because it is so very true. From the insanely helpful and friendly woman at La Esquina (my bad for not remembering your name) that basically offered to drive to Alec's place so we would not get lost, to Alec who just made sure we had everything we needed without being intrusive and always friendly it is the PEOPLE that make our trips great.
  And the DOGS! Ambre names the animals we see - you would have to ask her how she picks the names but they do always seem to fit. She says it just comes to her and seems right.

  Chiquita -

?????  I don't remember. Something like Guadalupe - He stopped us on the side of the road and was trying to sell us Mexican car insurance.

 These 2 had names - house dogs / garbage disposals where we stayed. They used to be local town dogs that adopted Alec and his Ranch.

Inca

 And Mancha - it means spot in Spanish - he is a chow mix with a spotted tongue - I called him Machu Pichu, or Manchego because I forgot his name

  The town! ~ What a beautiful little dirt road Mexican town. Ambre put it best when she said the people are "So very family oriented," there are laughing and playing children everywhere.
Who is up for a game of stick ball?

  We drove by the elementary school every day, (I never stopped and took a picture, kicking myself) it is a crazy brightly painted building that exudes happiness. With the windows rolled up and AC on I could still hear the laughter. We would commonly see parents walking their children to school in the morning on the dirt roads and many would sit on a bench outside the colorful fence waiting for their child to finish the day.
  Familia ~ you can feel it!

  As I wrote before, Ambres mother Eleanor came with us, she is 70 and as mean as a lap cat. Quite possibly the sweetest woman in the world and I love her something fierce. I also love that we came up with the idea of taking her to dirt road MX and in her quiet voice she said 'yes'. 4 plane rides round trip, I have no idea how many customs searches, a shuttle van from the airport to get the rental car that I drove all over the place without incident (but there were a few 'close' calls) up and down some of the snarkiest roads I have ever seen, u turns, a few 'I have no idea where are' occasions - and when I took Eleanor to the airport to fly back to Boise she still gave me a hug and a kiss and thanked me for taking care of her, and said she had a wonderful time.  Gonna break my arm patting myself on the back.

  Todos Santos is a very small town, most of the roads are not paved and pretty rough. Dry arroyos cross most of the roads. There are 2 distinct parts of Todos Santos joined by a rough road that passes through the orchard / grove area. When we first arrived I was pretty sure we were completely lost when we drove through the grove. It is the only road connecting the 2 sides of town.

  The Playa's

  As I said earlier, there are beautiful remote beaches everywhere - most require an adventurous drive down a dirt road and a leap of faith that you are heading the right way. But the reward is well worth the effort.
  We visited Cerritos playa and it was easily the most crowded beach we visited. Between the bar, surfers, and people sun bathing there was probably 50 people in view. Crazy crowded.

The surfing in Todos Santos area is AMAZING! It probably isn't as swimmer friendly as other areas but the surf is top notch.
  The water temperature this time of year is pretty cool (high 60's to low 70's) May is the coolest water time of year - in fall and winter the water temp gets well in the 80's.
 Another very wonderful surprise is the weather, mid 80's everyday with nights dipping into the 60's. For several weeks prior to the trip I had been checking the weather with an app on my phone and was a little concerned as it showed high 90's everyday with many days in the triple digits - The app was mistakenly quoting the temps in La Paz (about an hour and a half away on the sea of Cortez) and known for being wickedly hot. The friends we made in town told us that only in mid summer does it get 'hot' mid 90's are common in August but the rest of the year it stays moderate with a nice offshore breeze.
  The desert landscape looks far more inhospitable than it actually is & being from WA I love the cacti.

  Ambre and I went fishing 1 day. Our captain, Manuel met us at Playa Punta Lobos early in the morning and  we had a great morning on the water. The fishing was really good, we caught a bunch of Bonito and I caught a Puffer Fish. We kept 2 of the Bonito for dinner and let the captain keep the others and Puffer Fish to sell. The ceviche we made was incredible.

  Now for the description of panga fishing in BCS - there are no harbors or piers outside of Cabo or La Paz so the boats are launched directly into the surf in a very interesting manner that is second only to landing the boat by driving full speed through the surf and up on to the beach in what Ambre called "Fricking James Bond style"
I named these Pelicans but in true style can't remember who they are

  La Paz Cathedral

We drove to La Paz one morning to visit a few of the sites. The drive across the baja is pretty spectacular with it's desert mountains and amazing scenery. We didn't stay in La Paz very long as it was hotter than .......!
 and a pretty big city with crazy traffic and not the scene I enjoy, but the beaches were commercially picturesque 

Random Todos Santos Photos...

We spent the remainder or the trip relaxing, eating amazing food and soaking in the wonderful environment.

If you have read this far 'Thank You' I am not a functional writer and appreciate your patience - hopefully the photographs make it tolerable.

La Esquina! (Translation:  The Corner)
Coffee shop containing quite possibly the best cup of coffee I have ever had in addition to great food.
A quote from our first morning -
Ambre - "I would like a muffin"
Coffee girl - "They just came out of the oven, can you wait 3 minutes for them to cool?"
Ambre - "Ummm YEAH!"

Shot from the inside of La Esquina

My BABY! I Love You Ambre!